Adawaa Jeddah Contracting inspects villa and compound pools, finds the real cause, and agrees the repair scope before work starts.
Quick service summary
Pool repair in Jeddah starts with finding the real cause: a leak, a filter fault, a pump problem, or loose tiles. Note how fast the water drops and what the filter gauge reads, then send photos. Adawaa Jeddah Contracting inspects first and agrees the repair scope before work begins. Call 0546670011 to book.
Most pool problems arrive as a symptom, not a diagnosis. The water level keeps dropping, the filter gauge stays high, the pump rattles, or tiles sound hollow. Because the same symptom can come from several faults, guessing often pays for the wrong part. This guide shows how to narrow down the cause yourself, what to tell the technician, and which jobs can safely wait.
Start with three observations before you call anyone: how fast the water drops, what the filter gauge reads, and whether the pump sounds normal. Each one points toward a different fault. A drop that continues with the pump off suggests a leak in the shell or the suction side, while a drop only when the pump runs points toward the pressurised pipework. High pressure with weak flow points toward the filter. Write the readings down with the time, photograph the gauge, and note any wet patches near the pump room. That short note can save a whole diagnostic visit.
The bucket test separates evaporation from a real leak. Fill a bucket with pool water to about the height of the second step, and rest it on the step so it sits in the water. Mark the water level inside the bucket and the pool level on the outside of it. Leave both for 24 hours with normal pump use, then compare the marks. Evaporation lowers both by a similar amount. If the pool drops further than the bucket, water is escaping. Then repeat the test with the pump switched off, because that tells you whether the fault sits in the shell or in the pipework.
Leaks cluster in a few predictable places, so the search can be systematic rather than random.
If the level stops falling at a certain height, the leak is probably at that height. A drop that stops at the skimmer mouth points toward the skimmer, and one that stops below the light points toward the niche. To check a suspect spot, switch the pump off, wait until the water is still, and release a few drops of dye beside the crack or fitting. Dye that is pulled toward the opening marks the leak. Switch the pump off at once if the water falls below the skimmer opening, because a pump that runs dry overheats and damages its seal.
Most filter faults show up on the gauge or in the water. Pressure that stays high after a backwash suggests clogged or clumped sand, a worn lateral, or a restricted line. Sand blowing back into the pool points toward a broken lateral or standpipe. Water running to waste while the valve is set to filter points toward a worn valve gasket. A cracked tank, or a gauge that never moves, usually means replacement rather than repair. For ageing sand, the sand filter replacement guide (in Arabic) explains the usual steps. Note the clean pressure when the sand is fresh, because that number gives every later reading its meaning.
Technicians diagnose faster when you describe the symptom precisely. Bubbles in the pump basket usually mean air entering on the suction side, often through the lid o-ring or a loose union. A humming motor that will not spin can mean a stuck impeller or a failed capacitor. A grinding or screaming sound often points to worn bearings, and losing prime after a short run suggests a suction leak or a blocked basket. Leave the electrical side to a qualified technician, because water and wiring in a pump room are a dangerous mix. Switch the pump off at the breaker, then report what you saw and heard. More examples are on our pump problems page (in Arabic).
Tap suspect tiles with the handle of a screwdriver. A dull, hollow sound means the adhesive has let go. Loose tiles usually follow failed adhesive, movement at expansion joints, or water getting behind the finish. Scale on the waterline is a different problem, because it comes from hard water and high calcium, and it is cleaned off rather than re-fixed. A proper pool tile repair removes the loose tiles, checks the surface behind them, and re-fixes them with pool-grade adhesive and grout. When many tiles sound hollow in one area, the cause may be a waterproofing fault under the finish, so re-sticking tiles alone will not last. Our pool tile renovation page (in Arabic) shows the wider options.
Not every crack is a leak. Hairline cracks in the surface finish are common and often cosmetic, while cracks that run through the shell, widen over time, or line up with a wet patch outside the pool need attention. Mark the ends of a crack with a pencil and the date, then check again after a few weeks. A crack that grows needs an assessment, not just a patch. Repairs range from sealing and injection to rebuilding a section, and the right choice depends on what moved. Draining the pool for the repair carries its own risk, because a high water table can push an empty pool upward, so the technician should confirm ground conditions first.
A proper swimming pool repair service begins with questions, then moves to checks. The technician reviews your notes, inspects the equipment, and tests for the suspected fault. That can include listening for leaks, pressure-testing isolated lines, dye testing around fittings, and checking the filter and pump. Afterwards, the repair scope is agreed with you before any work begins, so nothing surprising appears later. Meet the technician at the pump room and keep your gauge photos ready. For structural or finishing work around the pool, see our repair and contracting services, and read how we work on the about page.
Repair prices depend on the fault, not on a flat rate, so we do not publish figures. The quote follows an inspection of the actual pool and its equipment.
| Factor | Why it changes the quote |
|---|---|
| Type of fault | A worn gasket and a cracked shell need very different work. |
| Access to the problem | Buried pipes and tiled decks take longer to reach. |
| Surface and finish | Tile, plaster, and fibreglass are repaired in different ways. |
| Draining needed | Draining adds time, water, and a ground-condition check. |
| Parts | Pump, valve, and sand parts depend on the equipment brand. |
| Urgency | A fast-dropping water level may need a same-week visit. |
Different pools fail in different ways, so the repair approach changes with the pool.
| Pool type | Common fault | What the repair focuses on |
|---|---|---|
| Concrete villa pool | Leaks at fittings and cracks near joints. | Leak location, then sealing or injection. |
| Tiled pool | Loose tiles and waterline scale. | Checking the surface behind the tiles. |
| Fibreglass pool | Surface damage and shell movement. | Surface repair and support checks. |
| Rooftop pool | Drain and fitting leaks. | Careful testing, because water damage reaches the rooms below. |
Our technicians work in Al Shati, Al Hamra, Al Andalus, Al Rawdah, Al Salama, Al Zahra, Al Naeem, Al Bawadi, Al Faisaliyah, Al Marjan, Al Safa, Obhur North, and Al Rahmaniyah. Coastal pools in Obhur North and Al Shati deal with salt air, so metal fittings and pump parts are worth checking more often. Regular care prevents many of these faults, and our pool maintenance guide explains the routine. To book a visit, use the contact page, or browse more pool advice on our blog.
Run the bucket test. Compare the water level inside a bucket resting on a step with the pool level over 24 hours. If the pool drops further than the bucket, water is escaping.
Clumped or clogged sand, a worn lateral, or a restricted line can keep the pressure high. If the needle never moves at all, the gauge itself may have failed.
Sometimes. A few loose tiles can be removed and re-fixed with pool-grade adhesive. If many tiles sound hollow in one area, water may be getting behind the finish, and the cause should be found first.
Not before a technician checks it. Draining an in-ground pool where the water table is high can lift or damage the shell, so ground conditions need confirming first.
Send your neighborhood, the gauge reading, and a photo of the problem, and a visit will be arranged with you.